She Cried S’more, S’more, S’more

There’s a reason most marshmallows are made in a factory. I always imagined them, if I imagined them at all, as a foam squeezed out of metal tubes into perfect cylinders that traveled haltingly down a conveyer belt to another machine that would “jet-puff” them. That process would inflate them like balloons, at which point they would tumble into the plastic bags that would take them to the grocery store.
It turns out that I was wrong. Marshmallows are made by whipping sugar syrup until fluffy and then allowing to set. The recipe, Stephen Bruce’s from Serendipity Sundaes via Leite’s Culinaria, sounded easy enough. In fact, it was easy enough, to a point. The sugar and corn syrup boiled away without any problem, and although I don’t have a candy thermometer, a spoon and a bowl of ice water were all I needed to check when the syrup was at the soft ball stage. I poured it over my gelatin in my stand mixer, then turned it on and let it whirl away.
Disaster struck soon after. I found I had to keep scraping down the bowl to keep the increasingly voluminous marshmallow fluff contained. I turned away for just a minute to add the vanilla, and when I came back, my marshmallow had made a break for it. The stuff had crept up the beaters like an amorphous monster and leapt the lip of the bowl. At least half of it blanketed the countertop around my still beating mixer. Panicked, I shut the whole thing off, poured the remaining marshmallow into my prepared pan, and called for my dad to eat the spillage.
The saved marshmallow set in the pan, but not quite as stiffly as store-bought marshmallows. Whether this was because they were homemade or because I didn’t let them whip until completion, I’m not sure. The advantage is that they soften very easily. I was able to make some s’mores over the grill, and while the distance between the marshmallow and the fire prevented them from browning, they were gooey and just started to melt the chocolate. They weren’t as good as campfire s’mores, but not that far off either.



